Trajan by Electimuss London

Trajan by Electimuss London

Hi there ULGers, Hope your fortnight has been a good one. If not then let’s talk perfume and forget the world for a moment. I have an admission to make. Electimuss as a brand has completely passed me by. From the Electimuss site: “Electimuss means “to choose the best” in Latin and that ethos is at the heart of our brand. Exquisite oils and resins in our fragrances are rare and precious and blended with meticulous attention paid to every note and detail… We care passionately about quality. All of our fragrances are 25% or 30% Pure Parfum / Extrait and our blends are unashamedly decadent and daring.” They are inspired by Ancient Rome.

Before we go any further I do not understand why brands are doing extraits and acting as if it’s a better deal. It’s bloody annoying. You could do 50% of cheap as shit ingredients and it is still an extrait. Also, I like the projection of an EdT. Should I wish a stronger % then I’d like to buy a 7.5ml extrait spray like the old Guerlain cigarette lighter case and wear them together. For that extra rich, burnished depth. In my books (clearly I’m a dinosaur) having the extrait should be a glamorous add on.

Sorry, rant over.

Trajan by Electimuss London 2020

Electimuss site gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin, lemon, bergamot, blood orange
Heart: Lavender, sage, saffron
Base: Cedarwood, oak moss, ambergris

I’m unsure why I even bought this sample from Surrender To Chance. I was having a little retail therapy late at night. You know how it goes, right?

Trajan is named for a Roman emperor whose claim to fame was the expansion of Roman trade frontiers down the Silk Road. Expanding the empires access to sought after goods from Asia. So I was expecting a heavily spiced incense fragrance with all the dark trademarks of the travel. It was a surprise that citrus came from Southeast Asia, Lavender from mainland Eurasia, Sage is Mediterranean and Asia Minor, Saffron from Central Asia, Cedar is Mediterranean and Himalayas, Oakmoss the Balkans and Far East and Ambergris comes from beaches the world over but the Chinese called it Dragon Spit. After having an early interior sneer yet again I have been brought back to reality. Though these are not the notes I’d have most connected with the Silk Road there is definite relevance. Sorry Electimuss for my judgmental attitude.

Trajan Electimuss

How does it smell? The opening is like a slightly tweaked Baccarat Rouge 540. Much less headache inducing but very reminiscent. The lavender is a very nice touch and it appears magically in the second or third minute and stays for a while. As the initial fury subsides there is a fantastic Play Doh vibe underpinned by bakery or maybe cookie dough and Trajan becomes something much more interesting.

My nose is also telling me there are some flowers hiding within the construct but I can’t pin them down. You know that powdery smoothness of petals, the feeling of peony or crabapple petals without the fragrance of them.

The base smells similar to loads of other mass-tige offerings. Very nice ambery/woodsy/vanilla all smooshed together into that reliably comfortable and wearable melange.

OK, it’s 5.03pm tomorrow now. The base is BR450 and ETERNAL. It will not wash off. 

The bottle looks gorgeous.

Sound good?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Do You Like Chypres?

It’s a full-blown spring here, and since I feel that chypre perfumes fit that time of the year. Of course, you might love them all-year-round or hate altogether. So, let’s talk about them.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #211:

Do You Like Chypres?

If yes, do you choose them more often in any particular period/weather? What are your top 3-5 chypres? If no, is there an exception – one or two that you do wear?

My Answer

I can’t say that I dislike chypres, but they clearly constitute the small part of my collection. I counted 12 perfumes in this family that I periodically wear, but for today’s SQ answer I’ll choose 5 (I can’t believe I don’t have a picture of PoaL with Rusty!): Miss Dior, Amouage Memoir Woman, Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady, Sisley Eau du Soir, Chanel Cuir de Russie.

 

How about you?

Do You Like Chypres?

Saturday Question: What Percentage Off Would Motivate You to Make a Purchase?

This week my YouTube stream is overflown with Sephora spring sale recommendations, so discounts, sales and offers are on my mind. I know that most of my readers slowed down in their quest for new perfumes, especially when it comes to full bottles acquisitions. But let’s talk in general of what seems interesting or significant enough to consider a purchase.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #210:

What Percentage Off Would Motivate You to Make a Purchase?

Let’s not talk about one-of-a-kind bargains, eBay finds or insanely discounted blind buys. But when it comes to regular stores, specialized online perfume boutiques or brands’ sites, what would incentivize you enough to buy perfume that you had on your wish list for some time?

Bonus – the same question but about skincare, beauty and makeup.

My Answer

As I said, Sephora was on my mind. My friend was supposed to share with me her Rouge status, and I was contemplating (strictly necessary!) purchases with her great 20% off discount… when we discovered that her status had elapsed before that sale. That was a disappointment! But after some considerations, I realized that 15% that I could get with my own status wasn’t that much worse, and I would end up spending probably just $5-7 dollars more. Still, before settling for “mere” 15%, I looked around to make sure that I couldn’t do better somewhere else. And while many brands offer the same 15% and sometimes even 20% for the first purchase, usually one has to spend $50+ to get a free shipping. And since each of the items that I planned to buy was under that threshold, placing separate orders at brands’ sites would end up costing more then buying everything at Sephora, which I did. None of the few items I bought was perfume-related (if not to count a free sample that I chose but might not get if they run out of those), but it made me think about discounts when it comes to getting perfumes.

I realized that my expectations and valuation of offers and discounts heavily depend on what I think is possible. I remember hunting 6 months for free shipping from the brand that usually didn’t offer either discounts or free shipping and being ecstatic when I managed to get it. On the other hand, if I know that some sites do 20% off once in a while, I would be patiently waiting to get that discount not being tempted by anything less. And for sites and brands that never do site-wide sales, I would be checking for some bundle or extra samples offer because it feels wrong to pay the full price and not to get anything “extra” – even if I don’t need it.

So, both for perfumes and beauty items that I plan to buy anyway, any discount is good and enough to push my decision – as long as I think that it’s the best I can do before I need to use it (if I’m running out of some beauty items) or have to buy it (if perfume is getting harder to get or being discontinued).

How about you?

What Percentage Off Would Motivate You to Make a Purchase?

Bull’s Blood 2nd Edition by Imaginary Authors 2023

Bull’s Blood 2nd Edition by Imaginary Authors 2023

Hey there crew, I don’t know if you remember the original but I had to sell mine on. It was just too much of whatever it was and drove me a bit bonkers when I wore it. It was relentless, combative and at some points disgusting. Problem was though that I loved that initial rush of opening. Yes, it was awesome and awful at the same time. That kind of contrapuntal can wear a person down after about 16 hours. Seriously. So I was very excited to read that a reimagined, less torturous version was being released last year. So now we have Bull’s Blood 2nd Edition! On my last Surrender To Chance trawl I grabbed a decant. Let’s see how it unfolds together…

Bull’s Blood 2nd Edition by Imaginary Authors 2023

Imaginary Authors give these featured accords:
Geranium, Spanish Rose, Patchouli, Black Musk, Tobacco, Sandalwood, Bull’s Blood

First I’d like to say how impressive the retail price is on a bottle. 50ml is US$105! They also give FREE US Shipping over US$75 spend. Imaginary Authors is seriously niche perfumery and could charge well above for their stellar product. That they are so generous with their talent makes me love them even more.

From the Imaginary Authors site: “The women and men in these pages are lovers and brawlers, bullfighters and boxers, soft talkers and hard drinkers. They inhabit dusty Spanish villages and dank, dark brothels…” Some of the best and funnest ad speak I’ve ever come across. There’s more too.

How does Bull’s Blood 2nd Edition smell? Straight out of the gate (see what I did there) sharp geranium and tobacco. Less car crash and more perfume than my memory of the previous iteration. Lightly salty, brine, under the boardwalk. It’s just enough to add colour and far less metallic. Bull’s Blood 2nd Edition feels more Arabic Rose/Patch/Oud and infinitely more accessible to me as a fragrance wearer. Maybe I was overcome by the marketing last time but it could also be a swapping out of costus for other accords.

Bull's Blood 2nd Edition by Imaginary Authors 2023

Still excellent longevity and above average projection. If you found the original version unwearable but loved the idea then this new Bull’s Blood 2nd Edition will probably float your boat on much calmer seas. Yes, it’s still a big deal, over the top and a little confrontational but now it does it with a smile and a cheeky wink.

Did you smell the original? Memories? Does Bull’s Blood 2nd Edition sound like a better option?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: Do You Like Modern Niche Perfumes?

I know, I know, it’s a very broad question. But I thought: if “Do you like vintage perfumes?” is a legitimate question, why wouldn’t this one be?

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #209:

Do You Like Modern Niche Perfumes?

Give your own definition to what you consider “modern,” and what you classify as “niche,” and after that tell me whether you like them, find new favorites, I’ll even dare to say – buy them?

My Answer

As a rule, I do not feel old (or even “older”). But recently I caught myself thinking that the way I feel about new niche perfumes that I come across makes me sound old, because my mental mantra these days is: “in my time” perfumes were better.

I am not talking about ingredients that were banned and substituted (even though, of course, that plays its role in my perception of new perfumes). I am not even complaining about lack of originality or not being memorable. But more and more I test new perfumes that smell either very minimalistic or too gender-neutral or overly artificial or not really perfume-y.

And after a while, I realized that those are not just poorly constructed perfumes (well, some of them are), but it seems like a new style. The industry keeps creating new aroma chemicals that become popular, and many new brands eagerly utilize them. They are not necessarily unpleasant, they don’t even smell identical. But many of them have some recognizable characteristics that just don’t excite or inspire me. And if perfumes aren’t expensive, I think: “Of course, how much could these aroma chemicals cost?” And if they are expensive, I think: “How could these aroma chemicals cost that much?!!”

I’m not a fan of vintage perfumes. I remember hundreds of perfumes of the past that I didn’t like. And I still come across some perfumes I like. But in general, I do not like the prevailing style of modern niche perfumes.

 

How about you?

Do You Like Modern Niche Perfumes?

Saturday Question: Have You Ever Used Someone Else’s Perfume Without Permission?

Don’t ask me how I came up with this one. It just emerged from some depth of my end-of-work-week brain (in the US, Good Friday isn’t a public holiday).

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #208:

Have You Ever Used Someone Else’s Perfume Without Permission?

If yes, what were the circumstances? What perfume was that? Were you “caught”? Did/do you have that perfume in your collection?

My Answer

As a child, I loved perfumes my mother and grandmother wore. And sometimes they would allow me to use some. I understood what perfumes were, I knew that I wasn’t supposed to touch them on my own. But somehow the concept of perfume leaving an “evidence trail” of my misbehavior escaped me at that early age, so on more than one occasion, being left alone, I would perfume my favorite doll with one of my mom’s Diors (pure parfum!) or “sniff” my grandma’s Climat parfum almost dipping my nose in the bottle opening. I wasn’t sure afterwards how adults could tell that I touched their precious bottles.

As an adult, I resist those temptations. Though I have to admit to sniffing mini bottles in a couple of my friends’ bathrooms. I don’t know whether they wear perfumes they keep in those guest bathrooms, or if those are used for decorative purposes, but I was intentionally careful not to pick up any of the scents with my nose.

How about you?

Have You Ever Used Someone Else’s Perfume Without Permission?

Bloom Where You’re Planted

Bloom Where You’re Planted

GAH! I’m caught with my pants down ULGers. Why Bloom Where You’re Planted? Well I was reading March’s Moving On post of Perfume Posse while having a late morning congratulations on getting so much done already today cuppa… I do it at 11.30am when I’ve been a good drone and got shitloads done. 30 minutes on the computer just doing some catching ups, reading a blog or two and commenting. It’s a perfect breather so I can go back, do 12-1pm more work with renewed vigour and then quit for lunch hour. The reason I’m giving you a rolling conmentry from my mind is that I just realized it’s my day to write on ULG and I’d completely forgotten. There’s a half written piece on the updated Bull’s Blood by Imaginary Authors but it’s not finished and I just don’t have the bandwidth today to get it done. I’m trying to get all the bank statements together for last years tax, pay all the bills, fold the washing and get ready for work tonight. Suddenly I remembered. CRAP! So, instead of a piece dedicated to a perfume you’re getting a snapshot of my life and some perfumes that have been getting a spritz lately..

Bloom Where You're Planted ice flowers

Bloom Where You’re Planted

Yeah, I know. I’m starting to be a Hallmark card. Bloom Where You’re Planted! It’s so tired but when you ignore how often you’ve heard or seen it and how condescending it can feel then I love what it says. Bloom Where You’re Planted. It’s more than “Make the best of a bad situation” or “Lemonade from lemons”. It’s like, find a way to flourish and be your best you no matter where you find yourself. Anyway it speaks to me. Maybe because it’s the way I try to be.

So what have I been spritzing?

Iris Rebel by Atelier Cologne

Cold, rooty, slightly doughy iris. It’s transiently gorgeous before becoming a quiet wash of earthy woodiness. An easy wear that feels so cool.

Midnight Fantasy by Britney Spears

Fruity floral banger with a sticky vanilla baseline. It’s like a Christmas rom-com. Awful but so good and so easy to wear.

Ombre Indigo by Olfactive Studio

A blue metallic amber that whispers salt. Nothing I own hits the same spot. If you’re looking for a cozy cuddle of an amber then look elsewhere.

Rahele by Neela Vermeire Creations

Osmanthus done in a leathery style with backup fruits and other florals that ends up a smooth glasslike leather, so shiny you can see your reflection in it..

Bloom Where You're Planted

What do you think when you hear or see Bloom Where You’re Planted? What have you been spritzing lately?
Portia xx

 

PS: Just so you know, I completed this post in under 25 minutes. Back to work. See you in a fortnight with Bull’s Blood.

 

Saturday Question: What Would You Consider a Fair Perfume Sampling Offer?

Long gone those times when departments stores gave away bags of samples with (and sometimes even without) a purchase. And most niche brands know better than to part with free samples (sometimes even with the purchase). Samples became a commodity, and in most cases we have to pay for them.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #207:

What Would You Consider a Fair Perfume Sampling Offer?

Free samples with a purchase? Free for S&H? Discount for a future purchase? Some other arrangement?

My Answer

All brands, mass-market and niche, should shower paying clients with free samples. Samples can be small (0.7ml – 1.5 ml), and preferably they should have some correlation to what the customer bought. But in general, who is in a better position to be a returning customer if not the one who had already paid for something else? Instead, most stores became extremely stingy with samples, which miraculously find their way to eBay instead (that’s where I bought all those samples on the photo below).

With testing perfumes without a purchase, for brands that do not have significant store presence, it is harder. I realize that brands cannot just hand over free samples: people will abuse that, and the samples would end up at the same location as their mass-market brethren. But I also do not understand when brands charge 2-3 times more per ml for a tiny sample: how else are customers supposed to decide whether they want to buy perfumes from brands they aren’t familiar with?! $40-$75 (and more!) for a set of samples, most of which won’t be even finished (since most people would not like and want to wear all 5-7-10 perfumes in the line).

What do I see as a fair solution? An ability to choose 3-5 small free spray samples with minimal (if any) bells and whistles in packaging, and pay just for the delivery. The ratio of the perfume one gets to how much the delivery costs should be such that it wouldn’t make sense to abuse the system. Another possible solution would be deducting the full price of a discovery set (minus the delivery cost) from the future full bottle purchase: don’t sell me for $45 (+S&H) 12-15 ml of perfumes most of which I won’t even like offering a $25 discount later if I pay a full price for a $200+ bottle.

Rusty and La Prairie Life Threads Platinums Samples

How about you?

What Would You Consider a Fair Perfume Sampling Offer?

Saturday Question: Do You Wear Perfumes on a Plane?

I missed the last week’s SQ post: I was traveling for work, and it messed up my blog-related activities. But I’m glad to be back: I missed you all!

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #206:

Do You Wear Perfumes on a Plane?

I was surprised to confirm that we haven’t done this question yet.

Do you have a routine for such trips? Any special perfumes or methods?

Bonus questions: When was the last time you were on a plane? What airline was it? How was your experience?

My Answer

My business trip (and the most recent flight) was to Las Vegas. One would think that it’s a good destination for such a trip, but I was at a conference where the company I work for was an organizer, and it was held off-off-strip (one of the resorts on the outskirt of the city), so this time I didn’t see Las Vegas much. But I got to wear several perfumes I brought with me without risking to suffocate anyone: those large open spaces were just asking for a hajusuuri-style application (but I settled for about four sprays at a time).

As for the plane, for many years my go-to perfume was Voyage d’Hermes dabbed from a mini bottle. It was our shared perfume with my vSO that fit perfectly to the idea of a travel perfume. And then I got tired of the scent, and Diptyque Volutes decanted in a roller-boll small bottle took its place as our shared travel perfume. But since this time I was traveling alone, I decided to go with something different – and chose Hermessence Musc Pallida (from a small decant bottle gifted by a generous friend). Applied to wrists, it was soft and pleasant, and I’m sure it didn’t bother anyone (on my short flight to Las Vegas there was an empty seat between me and another passenger, and on the return flight I got an upgrade, which also allowed an extra space – not that this perfume required such a precaution).

Shadow of a plane from the plane window

My flights both ways were on United Airlines. Boeing. Luckily – completely uneventful.

How about you?

Do You Wear Perfumes on a Plane?

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela 2023

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela 2023

Hi there ULGers, Maison Margiela is one of those fragrance houses that has kind of passed me by. There’s always a LOT of chatter about them on the boards, I’ve smelt a few of them, sometimes when I ask in the wild a very excited perfumista will tell me all about the provenance of their scent and Maison Martin Margiela’s Replica Collection. Basically an up market, niche version of the Demeter range with MUCH better longevity and interesting twists. It surprised me when looking up the brand that they’ve been around since 2010. So, while trawling Surrender To Chance NEW section not so long ago I noted that they had a brand new scent, being sold as a chypre and with such an alluring title as From The Garden. It was in the cart before I could even think it through.

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Margiela site gives these featured accords:
Top: Green Mandarin Essence – Grapefruit Essence – Blackcurrant Accord
Heart: Tomato Leaf Accord – Geranium Bourbon Heart Madagascar – Rose Accord
Base: Patchouli Indonesia – Cristal Moss – White Musks

Well they’re not lying about the fruity top. It’s got that unmistakeable perfume version of blackcurrant and a bright, screechy grapefruit that is both super sweet and tart AF. It’s a surprisingly gorgeous opening and I wish it lasted in that mode longer than the minute before tomato leaf makes a bold entrance, pushing all other notes into the background.  There they become a really good pillow to rest the tomato leaf on.

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela 2023

About an hour in the tomato leaf has decreased its power and is starting to let the geranium and patchouli add their respective charms.Loving the sharp geranium leaf that is almost photo realistic of rubbing a leaf between your fingers and then smelling the feisty waft. I’m sure the rose is mixed up in there but it’s not making a statement.

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela 2023

The dry down is a very calm dank earthy patchouli. Cristal moss is a synthetic moss recreation note and it does a very nice job here of adding a little furry greenery to the patchouli. It’s probably just me but in the base I smell basil leaves, just crushed for making pesto. It adds another dimension as we head towards fade.

From the Garden is a beautiful green chypre. A little darker than the 1970s version and though I hate to say it, more interesting. Maybe it’s the newness of the mixture and the front and centre of tomato leaf. Projection and longevity are moderate but the village is excellent. It really does change the air as you walk past.

Sound good?
Portia xx